Cycling Related

I am attempting to do away with the brooding discontent that has always accompanied the disc-brake setup on my Kaffenback. Some members will be aware of the long and tedious history of my disagreement with TRP Spyres, and more than one person here has helped me try to solve it.

Anyway, I've decided to go for a more dramatic solution - I'm going flat-bar, after acquiring some Clarks hydraulics dirt cheap. The rear brake is installed and is instantly a success, pending only a necessary shortening of the hose. On the front wheel, though, I need to remove a centre-lock rotor to put the new six-bolt one on (there's an adaptor on it currently). However my splined cassette-remover tool simply doesn't fit over the locknut on the hub axle. I have no recollection of this being a problem when I installed the original centre-lock rotors or replaced the rear one with a six-bolt, and I'm sure I would have remembered if I'd had to start arseing about with the hub (hubs are out of my tinkering comfort zone). I don't remember borrowing a different tool or anything either. Am I missing something obvious?

Linking to pics cos I can't upload them from a phone.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4kZKGVgZUsQ3YqD46

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVTTNfPEXmujFbtC8

I'd say that your axle locknut is incompatible with an internally splined lockring, except that you managed to install it...

I reckon the easiest option is to undo the axle locknut on one side, and maybe change the lockring for the externally splined type for future ease.

I caveat this by saying that my bikes are all six bolt, so I've never encountered this kind of problem. So everything I've said may well be bollocks.

ransos wrote: ↑

4 years ago

I'd say that your axle locknut is incompatible with an internally splined lockring, except that you managed to install it...

I reckon the easiest option is to undo the axle locknut on one side, and maybe change the lockring for the externally splined type for future ease.

I caveat this by saying that my bikes are all six bolt, so I've never encountered this kind of problem. So everything I've said may well be bollocks.

A nirvana I hope to attain if I ever get this one off - the new rotor is a six-bolt so I can do away with the adaptor. The snag is that, with the adaptor and lockring in place, I don't think there's enough room to get even a skinny cone spanner in behind the locknut. I wonder if I have somehow erased the memory of an epic struggle with the installation. I recall the whole adaptor business as quite straightforward, although it's possible that I was preoccupied with the knottier problem of spoke clearance at the time.

The Real Ravenhurst wrote: ↑

4 years ago

A nirvana I hope to attain if I ever get this one off - the new rotor is a six-bolt so I can do away with the adaptor. The snag is that, with the adaptor and lockring in place, I don't think there's enough room to get even a skinny cone spanner in behind the locknut. I wonder if I have somehow erased the memory of an epic struggle with the installation. I recall the whole adaptor business as quite straightforward, although it's possible that I was preoccupied with the knottier problem of spoke clearance at the time.

You could undo the locknut and cone on the opposite side and slide the axle out, but that's likely to result in the bearings emptying themselves onto the floor, so have some spares ready.
Another option is to hold the locknut on the opposite side with a spanner and see if you can then undo the locknut on the disc side. Depends how tightly it's secured against the cone.

You could try using an old screwdriver as a drift against one of the splines and tap it with a hammer.

Thanks peeps. I'm gonna try stuff in this order: 1) a different removal tool, on the offchance it's thinner-walled. 2) LD's screwdriver trick 3) emptying my hub bearings all over the floor.

Sounds a plan

Shall we put the local A&E on standby?

The Real Ravenhurst wrote: ↑

4 years ago

Thanks peeps. I'm gonna try stuff in this order: 1) a different removal tool, on the offchance it's thinner-walled. 2) LD's screwdriver trick 3) emptying my hub bearings all over the floor.

Should you have to resort to the perils of option 3, I recommend placing an empty tub under the hub as you withdraw the axle.

LowlifeDes wrote: ↑

4 years ago

Sounds a plan

I doubt that anyone has put their life on hold waiting for news, but as it turns out the new cassette removal tool is thinner-walled and it did the trick. Plus I have shortened my brake hoses with the aid of a YouTube video and a Shimano widget. Not only that, but I have two of everything because SJS cycles lost my parcel and then found it again. All is well, Kaffenback-wise.

Well that is superb news.

Isn't this the Kaffenback that was built starting from the moustache bars? Are you really so fickle?

The Real Ravenhurst wrote: ↑

4 years ago

I doubt that anyone has put their life on hold waiting for news, but as it turns out the new cassette removal tool is thinner-walled and it did the trick. Plus I have shortened my brake hoses with the aid of a YouTube video and a Shimano widget. Not only that, but I have two of everything because SJS cycles lost my parcel and then found it again. All is well, Kaffenback-wise.

TFFT. The edge of my seat was increasingly uncomfortable.

Iris wrote: ↑

4 years ago

Isn't this the Kaffenback that was built starting from the moustache bars? Are you really so fickle?

Yes. But ontological questions of the Trigger's Broom variety aside, it wasn't the bars I didn't get on with - it was the brakes.

ransos wrote: ↑

4 years ago

TFFT. The edge of my seat was increasingly uncomfortable.

Yeah sorry about the agonizing suspense.