Broken Barrel Adjuster Screw

[The Real Ravenhurst]

Been tinkering with the Kaffenback post-wipeout, and it's looking a bit sorry for itself. I thought I'd be doing a few simple things - replacing cables and suchlike, but it turns out there other issues lurking under the grime. The most annoying of these is that I've somehow managed to break off the barrel-adjuster screw on the the front brake caliper (the TRP Spyres that have been a source of all kinds of misery from the off), leaving a chunk of it still in there. There's enough sticking out that I can get hold of it with pliers, but it appears to be made of cheese, and just bends and squashes if I attempt to turn it. Any suggestions?

[LowlifeDes]

Spray it with GT85 and let that soak to see if that frees it. Put something that just fits through the hole to stop it from being crushed.

[LowlifeDes]

Find someone with a reverse thread screw extractor to go inside the cable hole.

[The Real Ravenhurst]

Put something that just fits through the hole to stop it from being crushed.

I've filed this under Things I Wish I'd Thought Of Before I Took The Pliers To It In The First Place.

[The Real Ravenhurst]

Find someone with a reverse thread screw extractor to go inside the cable hole.

That's the sort of thing Dr Evil might have. There is also a Screwfix near where I work so I guess I might find one there...

[ransos]

I've filed this under Things I Wish I'd Thought Of Before I Took The Pliers To It In The First Place.

Is there access to get a screw through from underneath? That might open it up again. Then pop a screw through the top with a dab of Gorilla glue, then unwind the whole thing once the glue has set.

(I share your dislike of TRP Spyres: I've just spent a small fortune on some hydro discs to replace them)

[The Real Ravenhurst]

In Epic Procrastination News, I have only just got round to sorting any of this. The reverse thread tapered thingy worked a treat (see below) and having got the remains of the broken screw out I can confirm that it is indeed made of cheese. Unfortunately it's not the only bit of the Spyre that is composed of dairy products, and I've managed to snatch failure from the jaws of success by rounding off the head of the bolt that holds the pads in place . I have occasionally destroyed an allen bolt through hamfistedness before, but in this case I was being careful, and it just squished like a squishy thing. If my fellow Spyre-hater @ransos is about... did you get rid of the Spyres you ditched or are they lurking in the corner of a garage somewhere? I am after some Spyre Spares. Or I might just ditch the bloody thing and get something else. What's the lowdown on alternative road disc calipers that don't cost a fortune?

[The Real Ravenhurst]

And yes I know my hands are grubby.

[LowlifeDes]

I have been deconstructing two bikes to end up with one. My Kaffenback and my Cotic are making way for my new Sonder Santiago. The Cotic had Avid BB7s and the Kaffenback had Spyres.
One set or the other will be going spare, so you would be welcome to them.

[ransos]

I recently changed the Spyres for r7000 stis and Hope RX4 calipers. About one million times better but cost a fortune. I have the complete set of Spyres so shout if you need anything.

[The Real Ravenhurst]

Oooh thanks for all the helpfulness and generosity. I could use either the bolt that holds the pads in from the Spyre, ideally with the mini p-clip thingy, or a miscellaneous front disc caliper of whichever sort is going spare . Thanks!

[The Real Ravenhurst]

I've got the knackered bolt out! These reversey-wotsits are very handy, aren't they?